Why Indian footwear artisans are upset with the luxury Italian label

Kolhapur, Western Indian city, has found itself in the unbearable global spotlight, as thousands of local craftsmen who tied traditional leather shoes charge a collective attack on the luxury fashion brand Prada to design them without credit.

The rhythmic bombardment of the hammer in the 58 -year -old Sadashif Sanik workshop is attempted to grinding the solid leather sandals.

“I learned the craft as a child,” as BBC told. One day, one day, goes to making “eight to 10 pairs” of these sandals, as he says, that the retail sale is modest from 8 to 10 dollars

5,000 craftsmen are still in Collapower still in this profession – the industry of a struggling cottage for competition in an automatic world, which was caught in Vannik from the dull working conditions and low wages.

It is not surprising, then, when the luxury Italian brand Prada released a new collection of shoes that carry an amazing similarity with the Kulhporean sandal – but it did not mention the design origins – the local craftsmen were in the weapon.

The reverse reaction was quickly. Social media was immersed in accusations of cultural seizure, which prompted Prada to issue a statement Acknowledging the roots of sandals.

Local politicians and industry societies now threw their weight behind craftsmen who want better recognition of the letter and its cultural heritage.

Mr. Sanake was not aware of the Prada show until the BBC showed him a video of him. When he told him that the sandals could sell hundreds of pounds in luxury markets, he mocked. “Do they have gold in it?” He asked.

Prada did not reveal the price, but Sandals Retails ranges between 600 pounds to 1,000 pounds in the United Kingdom, according to its website.

The first records of Kulhabor sandals date back to the twelfth century.

“These sandals were originally designed by members of Charmakar (Cobbler), which is also known as Chamars,” said Cavits Jagrani, a history professor at the New College of College at Colien.

Shammar is a specific layer term used to describe the daliite (previously known as the outbreaks) who work with animal skins.

Ms. Gagrani said: “But in the early twentieth century, the craft flourished when the governor of Kulhabor was granted at the time, Chattabati, Shaho, a royal sponsorship of this society,” said Ms. Gagrani.

Today, approximately 100,000 craftsmen throughout India participate in trade with an industry of more than $ 200 million, according to the MacCia and Agriculture Chamber, a prominent commercial group in the industry.

However, most of them continue to work in unorganized settings under bleak conditions.

“I have never learned. That’s all I know, and I profit about 4-5 dollars per day, depending on the number of requests,” said Sonita Sattiot, 60, said.

She said that women like her play an important role, especially in engraving of great hand styles, but they are not fairly compensated for long hours of work.

For this reason, Sonita’s children do not want to continue the craft.

A short distance from her workshop, the famous Chapal Ghouli Laghi Ghouli, or Sandel Lin, a group of storefronts – many of them struggle to stay standing on their feet.

“The leather has become very expensive and raised our costs,” said Anil Duyboudi, one of the first sellers to open a store here.

Traditionally, craftsmen used the cow and the Pavalo to issue these sandals. But since 2014, when the Hindu National BHARATIEAAANA party (BJP) has arrived, there have been many reports on vigilance – demonstrators or self -appointed activists – disguised to slaughter the alleged cow, and sometimes with physical violence. The cow is sacred by Hindus.

In 2015, the state of Maharashtra banned the slaughter of cows and the sale and consumption of beef, forcing craftsmen to rely on the skin of buffalo from the neighboring states, which prompted production costs.

Traditional sellers are also struggling to compete with artificial copies that overwhelm the market.

“Customers want cheaper sandals and they cannot always know the difference,” said Rohit Blukrichna Gavali, a Sandal Seller in Collery of the second generation.

Industry experts say the controversy highlights the need for a better institutional framework to protect craftsmen.

In 2019, the Indian government granted Kolhapuri the geographical indicator (GI) – a sign of originality that protects its name and design inside India, preventing unauthorized use by strangers.

Globally, there is no binding law that prevents countries or other brands from aesthetic tradition.

Aishwarya Sandeep, an advocate based in Mumbai, says India can raise the issue in the World Trade Organization under its flight agreement (aspects related to intellectual property rights), which is signed.

She adds that the system is exhausted and costly and often lacks the enforcement of the implementation, in India and abroad.

Lalite Gandhi, President of McCHA, says his organization plans to innocent the design of the Collapori sandal, in the hope of creating a legal precedent for future issues.

But some say that real change can only happen when India begins to see its traditional heritage in a different light.

“It is about moral recognition. India must push for sharing and joint brand.” “Whenever we are proud of our culture, our exploitation.”

Of course, this is not the first time that a global brand of fashion has been accused of customizing Indian handicrafts.

Many large stickers included Indian fabrics and embroidery work with a little or non -artist cooperation. Ms. Perry says: “Take Chekankari (a thin style from the Indian North Leno City), IKAT (fabric dye technology), and mirror works; it has all used over and over again. Craftsmen remain unimaginable while brands win their inspiration,” says Ms. Perry.

However, Mr. Gandhi says that Brada’s support for Kulhaporean sandals could be useful for craftsmen.

“Under their sign, value [of Kolhapuri sandals] “It will increase the horror, but we want some share of this profit to the craftsmen to improve them,” he says.

Rohit Blukrichna Gavali, Sandal Sandler in Collapor, agrees – has already started to see the difference.

“The design used by Prada was not very common, but now people are asking for it, with agents from Dubai, the United States and Qatar,” he says.

“Sometimes, the controversy can help.” “But it would also be good to also bring respect and better prices for those who keep this imitation alive.”

The case is unlikely to die soon.

At the present time, an appeal was made in a Supreme Court, calling for compensation for Prada and compensation for craftsmen, as well as cooperation subject to the supervision of the court between luxury posters and craft societies.

In a statement, Prada BBC told a statement that she was holding talks with McCtia in this regard.

Mr. Gandhi, its president, says that the meeting between the two sides will be held next week.

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